Method of shampooing and setting hair



Patented Oct. 20, 1953 UNITED PATENT OFFICE Norma "B. 'Gallenkamp,Houston, Tex.

No Drawing. Application July 20, 1950.,

"Serial No. 175,003

E'Claims.

This invention relates to hair preparations, and more particularly tohair preparations which may be used for cleaning and shampooingoperations as well as a hair coating operation; the invention alsorelates to a method of shampooing and hair setting.

Previous hair preparations have involved the use of a shampoocomposition for cleaning "the hair only, and where a hair setting orcurling operation was involved, another composition was applied to thehair after removing the shampoo. The problem of straightening hair wasparticularly difficult when the nature of the hair was that it wasexcessively curly or nky, and many wave and curling lotions as ;.-ell asgrease applications have been suggested for setting the 'hair'in thedesired fashion. Previous hair treatment operations also often involvedthe use of a separate brilliantine compound in order to impart gloss tothe hair.

As a stimulant to the scalp, anda conditioner to the air, it has alsobeen common practice'to apply hot oil treatments in the form of aseparate product, aside from the shampoo, grease, waving or curlinglotions and brilliantine.

The present invention provides a composition and method of treatmentwhereby a single composition may be used to achieve the resultsdescribed above. The hair preparation, according to the presentinventon, does not leave a greasy film on the hair, and yet impartsgloss and stability to the individual strands, leaving the hair with afree, natural appearance after treatment.

In accordance with the present 'invention, the composition for cleaningand coating the hair comprises generally starch, lanolin, a syntheticdetergent, and a wax, all of which are distributed in an aqueous medium.Depending upon the amount of water used, and also depending on thepresence or absence of "a thickening agent, which may be added ifdesired, the consistency of the product may vary from a rather fi-u'idliquid state to a relatively hard creme. The viscosity of the productmay, therefore, be varied, depending on the requirements of themanufacturer or user. Perfume or aromatic in- :gredients may beincorporated in the composi- "tion as desired, as well as coloringmatter.

In general, the range of parts by weight in the basic composition is asfollows:

to '40 parts starch '5 "to 10 parts lanolin v 101;0"65 parts detergent"4 to 6 parts was The weight ratio of water "to the non-aqueousingredients may vary from about 1:1 to about 4:1. A particularlysatisfactory formula is given in the example below.

The starch ingredient of the hair preparation may be any suitablevegetable carbohydrate or polysaccharide, such as starch derived fromcorn, potatoes, rice, tapioca, or wheat. The lanolin is preferablyintroduced into the hair preparation in the form of an aqueous emulsion,a desirable weight ratio being 1 part lanolin in 3 parts water, althoughthis ratio may be varied up to 50% lanolin by weight or down to about10% lanolin by weight, depending at least in part on the ultimateviscosity desired in the final preparation.

The detergent used in the composition is preferably a syntheticdetergent and preferably falls within the pH range between 6 and 8.Nonneutral detergents may be used with appropriate buffers to bring thepH within a generally neutral range. :As examples of suitable syntheticorganic detergents, there are included the sodium alkyl aryl sulfonates,which have been found satisfactory in the hair preparation. Otherexamples of suitable detergents are those having the general formulaR--SO3M, wherein R represents an organic radical containing at least onegroup having-more than 8 carbon atoms and R is selected from thefollowing: alkoxy group, alkyl group, mixed ether of long chain fatty"acid, glycol ester of a long chain fatty "acid, 'alkyl substitutedamide of a fatty acid, alkyl substituted aromatic radical,hydroar'omatic radical, and ester of a dibas'i'c acid, and M representsa radical selected from the group consisting of alkali metal, hydrogenand ammomum.

Included in the group of synthetic organic detergents and emulsifyingagents are compounds where R is an alkoxy group producing, for example,compounds between C1oI'I21O- SOsNa to C1aH3vO--SOaNa. B may also be analkyl group producing, for example lauryl'sodium sulfonate and cetylsodium sulfonate; or R may be a mixed ether of long and short chainaliphatic groups as, for example, vin the compound chain fatty acid, forexample as the "com:-

3 R may also be an alkyl substituted amide of a fatty acid, as forexample in the compounds C17H33(|LJNHC2H4S O 3N8 and p 0H, 11Haa JNC2H--S O 2N8 R may be an alkyl substituted aromatic radical as in variouscommercial compounds having the formula as for example the sodium saltsof alkyl naphthalene sulphonic acids and potassium salts of alkylnaphthalene sulphonic acids. Other suitable detergents are those inwhich R is a hydroaromatic radical, as for example in the followingcompounds:

S O ;Na

and

icals, as for example in the commercial stablizer which has the formulaThe wax may be either inorganic or organic, for example paramn wax orbeeswax, respectively. The wax is preferably introduced intothe'eompound in an aqueous emulsion, the proportions of which maygenerally be approximately the same as the lanolin proportions. With"respect tothe lanolin and the wax in the ultimate compound, thepreferred range is be- ;tween 5 and by weight of lanolin, and between 4and 6% by weight of wax, based on the non-aqueous ingredients in theultimate composition. 7

The addition or omission of perfume in the final composition i a matterof choice, as is the addition or omission of coloring matter, such as avegetable coloring compound. In either instance, less than 1 by weightbased on the nonaqueous ingredients is adequate.

If desired, for the formation of cremes, relatively small amounts ofgelatin or mucilaginous material may be introduced, or the starchcomponent may be increased in order to impart additional viscosity.

A hair preparation composed or made up of the following ingredients:

Example Ingredients: Parts by weight Starch 35 Lanolin 6,7 Detergent53.3 Wax 5 Water 330 The water was placed in a container and brought toabout 212 F. The starch, which forms a base for the emulsion, was added,after which the lanolin and wax were added in the emulsion state, ineach instance the emulsion being about a 25% aqueous emulsion. Thesynthetic detergent (in this instance a sodium alkyl aryl suffonate) wasadded and fractions of one part each of vegetable coloring and perfumewere added, after which the entire composition was dispersed in theaqueous medium, assisted by the detergent having the properies of awetting agent. After cooling, the composition was fairly fluid and readyfor bottling.

In the preferred method of applying the hair preparation, the user firstwets the hair on the head with quite warm water (e. g. to F.) and thehair preparation is sprinkled lightly on the head. Brisk rubbing permitsthe preparation to act as a shampoo and, preferably, the preparation isrinsed from the hair, at least when the air was previously sufficientlysoiled or greasy so as to warrant the removal of foreign matter. If thehair is not in that condition, the preliminary shampoo is sufficient andthe preparation may be permitted to set after a light rinse withrelatively warm water. The hair is then dried and ready forstraightening, styling and wave setting in the usual manher.

One of the advantages of treatment of the hairwith the treatmentaccording to this invention is that lanolin is applied to the hair, andthe wax serves as a medium for straightening kinky hair, as well as forwaving, curling and conditioning the hair. After the operation iscompleted, a greaseless gloss remains. The composition is free of strongand harmful chemical agents, and of course detergents which areexcessively strong or non-neutral in their characteristics arepreferably to be avoided unless they are buffered.

Only small applications, e. g. one and one-half tablespoons of the hairpreparation are required for normal conditions and even where heavygrease has previously been applied the application of three tablespoonsof the preparation is sufficient to remove the grease. The preparationalso acts as a lacquer for the hair and is particularly useful inpreventing dryness and removing tendency of the hair to kink.

Under relatively heavy grease or soiled conditions it is preferred thattwo applications of the preparation be made. The first application ispreceded by a light rinse of the hair with relatively warm water, asdescribed above, after which the hair preparationof the invention isused as a shampoo and the major portion thereof is rinsed away withcooler water. The second application is made after a rinse of Water at alower temperature than the first rinse, e. g. in the temperature rangefrom about 105 to 135 F. Consequently the application and use of thepreparation as a shampoo is preferably made at a slightly highertemperature than when the preparation is used for waving, setting,coating and fixing purposes.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of treating human hair in preparation for waving whichcomprises soaking the hair with warm Water, distributing through the wethair a composition comprising starch, lanolin, neutral syntheticdetergent and wax, all evenly distributed in an aqueous medium, rinsingand drying the hair, thereby to leave on it a greaseless coating whichpermits the hair to be set.

2. The method of cleaning and setting human hair which comprises wettingthe hair with warm water, distributing into the Warm wet hair acomposition comprising starch, lanolin, synthetic detergent, and wax allevenly distributed in an aqueous medium, applying hot water to the hairto remove the water soluble portion of said composition, again wettingthe hair With warm water, again applying said composition to the hair,rinsing and. drying.

NORMA B. GALLENKAMP.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS NumberName Date 1,055,972 Freeman Mar. 11, 1913 1,513,918 McQuillan Nov. 4,1924 6 Number Name Date 1,663,389 Samuelson Mar. 20, 1928 1,682,230McDaneld Aug. 28, 1928 2,154,925 Wilson Apr. 18, 1939 2,155,178 BrownApr. 18, 1939 2,305,356 Luckenbach Dec. 15, 1942 2,310,687 Friedman Feb.9, 1943 2,405,166 Reed Aug. 6, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date17,990/34 Australia Feb. 21, 1935 798,262 France May 13, 1936 OTHERREFERENCES Bennett: The Cosmetic Formulary, Chemical Pub. Co. of N. Y.Inc., 1937, pp. 112, 115, 116, 117 and 123.

Chilson: Modern Cosmetics, second ed., 1938, Drug and Cosmetic 1nd,, N.Y., N. Y., page 423.

Lourie: Hair Fixatives, Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics, April 1940, pp.238-242, 244 and 264.

Kalish: Cosmetic ManualI-Iair Dressing, Drug & Cosmetic Industry,October 1940, pp. 398, 399.

Cobb: Cold Waving, Modern Beauty, November 1943, page 56.

Harry: Modern Cosmeticology, Chemical Pubv Co., Inc., Brooklyn, N. Y.,1947, pp. 340-343.

J. A. P. A., Practical Pharmacy Ed, April 1947, pg. 211, Liquid CreamShampoo.

Hilier: Hair Preparations, Drug 8; Cosmetic Industry, December 1949, pp.642, 643, 716 and 171.

D. and C. Industry, May 1949, pg. 649, Hair Conditioning Cream.

Pantaleoni et al.: Fatty Alcohol Sulfates for Shampoo, Drug and CosmeticIndustry, January 1950, pp. 36, 37, and 112-115.

